Full-fashioned stocking and method of making same



Patented Apr. 12, 1932 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE `EDIMOND H. BELBEB,0F PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA, ASSIGNOR TO FASHIONLOX,

INCORPORATED, OF DOVER, DELAWARE, .A CORPORATION OF DELAWAREFULL-FASHIONED STOCKmG AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Application led October6, 1930. Serial No. 486,845.

This invention relates to the art of fullfashioned hosiery and concernsparticularly a stocking of greatly improved appearance and strength inVthose portions which are Q shaped, or fashioned, by narrowing orwidening the web during the course of knitting, while embodying,nevertheless, those identifying characteristics which distinguishfullfashioned stockings knit in flat condition from other types ofhosiery. In obtaining a stocking having such advantages a novel methodof fashioning is employed which also forms a part of this invention.

In shaping full-fashioned hosiery by narrowing or widening the stockinweb, it 1s the common practice to transfer inwardly or outwardly, inaccordance with the direction the web is being knit, groups of stitchesadjoining the respective edges. Such operations can be effected as oftenas desired as additional courses are knit, but to maintain a relativelynice appearance, it is preferable not to narrow or widen more often thanevery fourth or sixth course. In the early art the stitches, or needleloops, were transferred only one needle, but it was found that it wasimpossible by this practice to obtain sufficient shaping. This resultedin the present general practice of transferring the stitches in thevarious courses in which narrowing or widening is effected by at leasttwo needles. While the desired shaping may be effected by transferringthe stitches two needles, socalled fashioning marks are produced in theseveral courses where the last inward stitch of the transferred groupadjoins the main portion of the stocking web. Such fashioning marks arequite pronounced and unsiglitly, the size depending on thc number ofneedles the stitches are transferred, and the knitted loops are undulytensioned by reason of the transfer operation so as to weaken theknitted web at these points increasing the danger of runs and droppedstitches. Further, the appearance of the finished stocking is spoiled tosome extent by reason of the fact that the Wales formed by thetransferred groups of stitches along the edge will run parallel to theedge and at a. considerable angle to the direction of the wales in thebody of the web, producing a displeasing contrast between the fashionedand unfashioned portions of the web.

I am aware that it has hitherto been proposed to overcome some of theabove disadvantages by effecting the transfer of only a small end groupof stitches so that all fashioning marks in the various courses may begathered up in the selvage seam when the stocking is assembled. Such anexpedient has the serious disadvantage from a commercial point of viewin that the narrowing marks, which form the distinguishingcharacteristics of full-fashioned hosiery are hidden in the seam. Afurther disadvantage is that the unshaped portion of the stocking web.adjoins the seam and the wales thereof meet the seam at such an angleas to produce an unfavorable effect.

Having in mind the objectionable features of full-fashioned stockingsmade in accordance with known practices, I propose to produce accordingto a novel method a fully fashioned, full-fashioned stocking having allof the advantages in appearance and strength of stockings in which thenarrowing or widening consists in the transfer of stitches by only oneneedle, and having the desired shape heretofore obtained by transferring by two or more needles.

In the drawings:

Fig. l illustrates diagrammatically a fullfashioned stocking in fiatcondition in which the shaping is effected by narrowing according to myinvention;

Fig. 2 illustrates diagrammatically a rear view of a completedfull-fashioned stocking narrowed according to the present invention;

Fig. 3 is a diagrammatic view on a magnified scale illustrating themethod employed in narrowing a full-fashioned stocking web according tothe present invention.

My basic concept is to shape the stocking web by fashioning along two ormore lines with respect to the edges of the web. The most outwardfashioning may be obtained by suitable manipulation of the last stitchat the edge of the courses in which shaping is to be effected by variousknown expedients, as by dropping the end stitch if narrowing is to beeffected, or twisting such stitch in the case of widening. However, abetter product will be obtained by effecting the shaping nearest theedges in the various courses by transferring the end group of stitchesinwardly or outwardly by one or more needles. The further shaping moreinwardly from the edge is obtained by transferring additional groups ofstitches adjacent the first group 1n the various courses in such mannerthat the fashioning marks in the several courses will define a lineparallel with the edge of the web, such effect being produced bytransferring the same number of stitches in corresponding groups invarious courses inwardly or outwardly by the desired number of needles.If two or more transfers are effected in each of various courses, itwill be understood that the lines defined by the fashioning marks willbe parallel to the edge of the web and to each other.

While the transfer of stitches in the various courses may be over one,two, or more needles and yet produce narrowing marks along severalparallel lines inwardly from the edge, I prefer to make each of theseveral transfers in the various courses cover only one needle as inthis way the web is not weakened, although the desired shape resultsfrom the several transfers in the respective courses. Furthermore, andwhat is most important in connection with the appearance of the finishedproduct, the transfer farthest inwardly from the edge should be by onlyone needle and should be such as to make the fashioning marks occupy thesame position relative to the edge of the web as is now the practice.

My essential purpose in narrowing in several areas inwardly from theedge of the web being to improve the appearance and strength of thefinished stocking, further advantages may be obtained by locating one ormore of the rows of fashioning marks near the edge of the web so as tobe incorporated in the seam when the stocking is assembled, and the mostinwardly set of marks so as to occupy the position, say eighteenstitches inwardly from the edge in the case of a fine gauge product, asin common practice. Such an arrangement will result in a com letedstocking havin one visible set of fashioning marks, which orm thedistinguishing characteristics of full-fashioned hosiery, locatedparallel to the seam, which marks are notf objectionable to the eyesince the transfer is by only one needle, and an additional set or setsof fashioning marks,` evidencing the other transfer necessary tocomplete the shaping, located within the seam. A further advantagearises from the fact that the wales between the two, or more, arallelsets of fashioning marks will be at ess of an angle with respect to theedge than the wales of the main part of the web, but will not beparallel to the edge as will the wales between the edge and the firstinward set of fashioning marks. The effect produced is as if the walesof the main web gradually curve downwardly and merge into the seam at agradually decreasing angle. Still another advanta e, arising from thefact that since the trans er is to be only over one needle, heavierthread may be used in knitting the reinforced portions of the heel.

Referring now to the drawings, it will be noted that I have illustratedthe manner of producing a stocking embodying the abovedescribed ideas,the stocking being of the type knit from the top to the foot with theresult that the shaping is effected b a narrowing operation. It will beun erstood, however, that my inventive concept is equally applicable tostockings which are knit from the foot to the top and in which theshaping is effected by means of a widenin operation. It is deemedunnecessary to il ustrate the embodiment of my invention in connectionwith both types of stocking, inasmuch as the actual method oftransferring the stitches, both in connection with widening andnarrowing, is well known. It is believed sulficient to call attention tothe fact that in the narrowing operation the fashioning marks comprisewhatappears to be a knot b reason of the existence of two loops in thesame Wale, whereas in the widening operation a slight hole is producedin the fabric.

In Fig. 1 I have illustrated a portion of a stocking, including the calfportlon, generally denoted by the reference character 10, and

the heel portion denoted by the numeral 11.`

As is well known, it is necessary that certain ortions of the stockingbe shaped or fashloned to conform to the contour of the human leg. Inproducing the desired taper where the stocking is knit from the toptowards the.

foot, groups of stitches adjacent the edge are transferred inwardly oneor more needles. In making a stocking according to the present inventionas above set forth, I propose to effect the narrowing by successivetransfers of one or more groups of stitches, preferably in the samecourses, near the edge with the result that more than one set offashioning marks are produced inwardly from the edge of the fabric. InFig. 1 I have illustrated a stocking embodying two such transfersresulting in two sets of fashioning marks comprising, respectively,fashioning marks 12 and 13 in the calf and corresponding groupscomprising, respectively, fashioning marks 14 and 15 in the heelsection. For best appearance, it is desirable that these several sets offashioning marks be parallel and preferably that the set of fashioningmarks 12 nearest the edge be so positioned as to be incorporated in theseam when the stocking is sewed up. The fashioning marks 13 willpreferably occupy the same relative position with respect to the edge asis common practice. It will be understood that similar fashioning may beeffected in other portions of the stocking as desired with the samearrangement of the fashioning marks.

5 In producin the desired shaping in a stocking whereln a narrowingoperation is employed, the knitting is effected to produce a fabric suchas re resented in Fig. 3. In this figure, I have indlcated the edgeportion of three courses a,b and c, narrowing being effected in coursesa and c; b indicates a course of plain knitting and is followed by abroken course to indicate that the narrowing may be effected in asfrequent courses as is' desired.

In producing the several transfers which result in the several sets ofparallel fashioning marks several expedients may be employed. Asheretofore indicated, the fashiomng nearest the edge may be effectedmerely by dropping the end stitch in the various courses in which it isdesired to effect narrowing, but referably, and as illustrated severaltrans ers inwardly from the edge of the stocking give a b'etter product.The several transfers of groups of stitches inwardly from the edge maybe effected in any desired order by obvious manipulation of the transferpoints with which the fiat knittin machines on which the full-fashionedstoc ings are made are equipped. I prefer to effect transfer of the endgroup of stitches extending inwardly to the stitch wherein the mostinward transfer is to be effected one or more needles and then eitherlto move the same transfer oints outwardly so as to collect a lesser numer of stitches of the group inwardly one or more titches further or toprovide additional transfer points to accomplish this latter purposeafter the usual transfer points have operated to transfer the completegroup. It is to be understood, however, that the end group, which willdefine the fashioning marks nearest the edge, may first be transferred,and then these stitches, with the additional stitches, includin the laststitch inwardly to be transferre to effect the additional narrowingresulting in the production of the second set of fashioning marks. Forbest results, as above indicated, I prefer` to make each transfer overonly one needle with the obvious result that the end group of stitches,which in Fig. 3 I have indicated as including arbitrarily three loops,will be transferred inwardly two needles by reason of the successivetransfers of one needle, and the additional stitches in the narrowedcourses a and c, over to what I have arbitrarily selected as the tenthstitch, will be transferred only one needle. By such method of 6narrowing, fashioning marks will be produced at points 16 and 1 8. Inorder that the fashioning marks in the several courses may be parallel,itis necessary that the successive transfers in the various coursesinclude the same number of stitches and be over the same number ofneedles. By such a method, fashioning marks, indicated as arisin at 17and 19 in course c, will be produced w ich are in line respectively withthe fashioning marks produced in course a at 16 and 18.

Referring again to Fig. 1, it will be seen that the wales of the coursesbetween the outermost fashioning marks 12 and the edge of the fabric areparallel to the edge and that the wales in the area between the rows offashioning marks 12 and 13 form a relatively slight angle to the edgewales, and also a relatively slight angle with the wales in the mainportion of the web". This feature is quite desirable, inasmuch as itgives the effect of a gradual tapering of the wales at a decreasingangle to the edge of the web.

This effect can be more readily appreciated by referring to Fig. 2 whichshows a portion of the completed stocking corresponding to Fig. 1 inwhich it will be noted that the wales in the area between the seam andthe fashioning marks 13 are at a less an le with respect to the seamthan are the wa es of the main portion of the web.

For best appearances, it is desirable to position the fashioning marks12 sufliciently near the edge so as to be gathered u in the seam whenthe stocking is assemble and if it is desirable for pro er shaping toeffect further transfers in addition to the two indicated to also eiiectsuch transfers suciently near the ed e so that the resulting fashioningmarks wil? be gathered within the seam. Such will result in adequateshaping of the stocking wherein only one set of fashionin marks appearin the finished stockin an these since they embody a transfer o only oneneedle.

What I claim is:

1. A full fashioned stockin comprising a flat blank fashioned in severaparallel areas adjacent each selvage edge thereof, said blank beingsewed up along the edges and completely incorporating in the seam soproduced the fashioned area nearest each selvage edge.

2. A full fashioned stocking com rising a fiat fashioned-blank havingparallelrows of fashioning marks adjacent each selvage ed thereof, theblank being' sewed up along t e edges and incorporating in the seam soproduced the rows of fashioning marks nearest each selvage edge.

3. A full fashionedstocking comprising a fiat fashioned blank havingparallel rows of fashioning marks lying at different distances inwardlyfrom each selvage edge, said rows of fashioning marks being sopositioned that one row will lie within and the other row without theseam produced when the blank is sewed up.

4. The method of making a full fashioned stocking which consists inknitting a blank along parallel lines in flat condition, fashioning theyblank at suitable intervals along the edges thereof to produce aplurality of rows of fasbioning marks extending parallel to the edges bytransferring certain narrow end groups of stitches at least two needlesand transferring other groups of stitches lying inwardly of thefirst-mentioned groups b only one needle, and sewing up the blank alongthe edges to include in the seam so produced the portion of the fabricto a width defined on the inner side by a line extending between andparallel to the several rows of fashioning marks.

5. The method of making a full fashioned stocking which consists inknitting a blank along parallel lines in fiat condition, fashioning theblank at suitable intervals alon the edges thereof to produce aplurality o fashioned areas yof different characteristics defined byseveral rows of fashioning marks, the outermost rows of fashioning marksand the outer areas defined thereby lying within the stocking seam, bytransferring narrow egual end groups of stitches a given number oneedles to produce a fashioned area. defined by rows of fashioning marksextending parallel to the edges and transferring other groups ofstitches inwardly of the first groups a lesser number of needles in thesame direction. and sewing up the blank to incorporate in the seam theoutermost fashioned areas and rows of fashioning marks.

6. A full fashioned stocking comprising a fiat knit blank fashioned inseveral parallel areas adjacent each selvage edge thereof and sewed upto include in the seam the fashioned area nearest each selvage edge, thearea lying within the seam being narrowed or Widened by a greater numberof needles than the adjacent fashioned area lying without the seam.

7 A full fashioned stocking comprising a flat knit blank fashioned inseveral parallel areas adjacent each selvage edge thereof and sewed upto include in the seam the fashioned area nearest each selvage edge, thearea lying within the seam being4 narrowed or widened two needles andthe area lying without the seam by one needle.

8. A full fashioned stocking including a seam joining the selvage edgesthereof, the stocking fabric including fashioned areas extending alongeach side of the seam and adjacent thereto, said fashioned areas beingdefined by rows of fashioning marks lying in parallel relation with theseam, the wales in such fashioned areas extending at an angle to theseam and to the wales of the main stocking fabric.

9. A full fashioned stocking including a seam joining the selvage edgesthereof, the stocking fabric including several fashioned areas extendingalong the selvage edges, the area nearest said edges extending parallelthereto and being of such width as to lie with-- seam will extend at anangle both to the seam and the wales of the main stocking fabric.

In testimony whereof I afiix my si nature.

EDMOND H. BEL ER.

